LEONE BRASSERIE
EXQUISITE FUSION OF CULINARY DELICACIES IN PUERTO BANÚS
It might seem somewhat off-topic to begin a restaurant review by highlight ing its setting. But this is Marbella, specifically Puerto Banús, and a frontline marina vista of sumptuous yachts bobbing on glistening Mediterranean wa ters is de rigueur for the ultimate culinary experience in this glamour-savvy part of the Coast. So, let’s start by noting that Leone Brasserie impeccably ticks off the “loca tion, location, location” box. In short, they essentially had us won over even before we introduced ourselves at the front door to the maître d’. Then there’s the menu. One of our intrepid Home & Lifestyle Magazine re viewers is passionately partial to freshly shucked oysters, so any restaurant offering that delicacy becomes an immediate gastronomic BFF. Obviously, that is, if it’s exquisitely prepared – and at Leone it certainly was. But more about the menu later. First the décor… The new owners took over Leone in early spring 2022 and one of their priorities was clearly to create an ambience that is light, airy, cool and modern, without (thankfully) falling into the trap of becoming too starkly min imalist. The setting is comfortably open plan but eminently cosy, with diners sitting at the entrance of the restaurant being afforded a picture-postcard, front-seat panorama of the marina. Once seated, warmly welcomed by “floor manager” Jordi (who speaks fluent English) and served an appetising complementary aperitif of guacamole, we studied the menu. Recently updated, it is now (we were told) more focused on grill dishes, with the previous sushi options excluded. Nevertheless, the menu is still accentuated by an enticing fusion of varied cuisines. In addition to the oysters (Fin de Claire No 3, with a shallot dressing), and af ter some extended contemplation (so many appealing options), we decided on the rock shrimp tempura and the crab and celery remoulade (with green apple and lemon mustard mayonnaise) for our starters. Next time(s) we are looking forward to the Vietnamese beef salad (with rice noodles), chicken and vegetable spring rolls (with Nuoc Mam sauce), salmon gravadlax (with horseradish cream and green apple carpaccio), beef tartare (served with crispy potatoes) and baked mussels (with Leone’s signature garlic butter). For mains, again, hard to make a decision, so another visit will be imperative, but we eventually opted for Italian beef tagliata (grilled entrecôte, rocket leaves, shaved parmesan and truffle sauce – the latter just the right touch to provide subtle taste and aroma without being overpowering) and Asian
salmon (low temperature cooked, with tamarind sauce and served with co conut rice). Before settling on salmon, we were also tempted by the sole meuniere, sea bass “espalda” and tuna fillet, as well as happily salivating over the grill menu, which includes blue national lobster, Sanlucar prawns, Alaskan king crab, chicken satay and rack of New Zealand lamb. By dessert time, we were ready to declare ourselves suitably nourished (it was lunchtime and afternoon work is always complicated on an overfed stom ach) but were swayed by the charming waitress’s revelation that “Paris-Brest” is their most popular sweet (choux pastry and praline buttercream). On an other day we would have been equally drawn to the red berry pavlova and passionfruit tart. Sometimes even the better restaurants get everything right then fail at the final coffee hurdle. So, we were delighted that Leone maintained their me ticulous attention to detail right to the end, with an excellent finishing coffee. There is a special children’s menu (burger, breaded chicken, fish fingers and spaghetti bolognaise), and on Sundays an “Afro Beat Bottomless Brunch”. On the day we were there (Wednesday), the chilled-out background music was perfectly balanced to set the right mood but was not at all intrusive for conversation. For those not having to work later (or drive), the wine list – mostly from Spain, France and Italy but also New Zealand and Argentina – covers a diverse array of preferences. In addition, there is an ample gin menu, which explores the classic tastes of Spain, England, Germany, France, Japan, Peru and Co lombia. And finally, the name… It completely escaped us until we received an expla nation later but apparently it derives from “Le” and “one”, or the “one and only”. Clever – and aptly-named.
Leone Brasserie Open every day 10am to late Muelle Ribera, Local 44-45, Puerto Banús (Marbella) Tel. (+34) 952 811 716 info@leonebanus.com www.leonebanus.com Facebook: @leonebanus
DINING AT THE TOP OF ITS GAME
Restaurante Casino Marbella
There is more to Marbella’s exclusive casino than just poker and blackjack… it also has a hidden treasure, its innovative and elegant Restaurante Casi no Marbella. Whether you fancy your chances on the casino table or would rather just enjoy an evening at a dining table, this venue offers something for everyone. Situated in the grounds of the impressive new Hard Rock Hotel in Nueva An dalucía, it is conveniently located next to Puerto Banús. As with all casinos you need to show your passport or identification to enter, and once inside you are instantly struck by the sophisticated and contemporary decoration and welcoming staff. The menu celebrates the delights of Mediterranean gastronomy, taking you on (they say) “a journey through the senses”. The master in the kitchen is a creative young Spaniard named Agustín Román, who has an impressive cu linary background in several Michelin star restaurants, and has worked not only in Spain but also in the US and Germany. The menu this talented chef has created is wonderfully balanced, offering a variety of dishes to share such as homemade prawn gyozas, a luxurious Rus sian salad, truffled potato omelette, lamb brioche and citrus smoked salmon, among others. It is best advised to have three or four sharing dishes and then go for a main dish of baked sea bream or sea bass; or, for the carnivores, solomillo (sirloin) or entrêcot – all served with perfectly cooked vibrant vege
tables. For those with a sweet tooth, delicious desserts are also on offer, such as panna cotta with ricotta, red berries and a balsamic glaze, a homemade coconut cake with Matcha tea ice cream, and an indulgent hazelnut choc olate brownie. There is a wide choice of drinks on offer from their impressive bar area, ranging from liquors, cocktails, beers, wines and champagne to non-alcoholic beverages. The table service is notably formidable. The staff all have a happy and up beat attitude, willing to assist at any moment without being overbearing – and showing the utmost professionalism. When reading online reviews of the restaurant, many diners compliment the maître d’, and rightly so, as on our visit he was absolutely charming, putting us immediately at ease while listen ing to our requirements and offering his own personal suggestions. Even though this restaurant has no outdoor dining area, the room feels light and airy, with its cutting-edge décor contrasting with lush-green plants and freshly-cut flowers. The restaurant is on a slightly elevated landing that looks out over the casino itself, so you don’t have to travel far to have a flutter if the mood takes you. The Casino Marbella’s dining area is open daily from 8.30pm until 2.30am, and offers a group, tasting or à la carte menu. To reserve a table Tel. (+34) 952 814 000, or visit their website: www.casinomarbella.com
Call: (+34) 951 38 38 97 Email: advertising@homeandlifestyle.es www.homeandlifestyle.es
